Saturday, September 14, 2013

Back to the Drawing Board.

It's been about a week and a half since we arrived back on US soil and we would both agree it has been an adventure.  However, let's not beat about the bush - Ecuador was NOT for us.  It was evident in the first few days this was not going to work for us.  As I said in a post on Facebook not long ago....Retirement is hopefully for a very long time.  We could go through a slew of reasons why we arrived at the decision we made, but when it came down to it there was just too much poverty, too much garbage and not enough to do in the place we thought we wanted to be.

To be fair, we never saw that much of Quito, the capital, we saw nothing of the Amazon jungle or the rain forest and we spent no more than 24 hours in both Quito and Cuenca which was enough, as we had no intention of becoming city dwellers or living high in the Andes anyway.

We left Quito the very next morning and flew to Cuenca, a World Heritage Site, also in the Andes, where we had to meet with the lawyer conducting the residency process.  We handed over our documents, then our lawyer Lena said, "why not look around at some of our Real Estate to pass the time while I sort through these" (she owned and ran a real estate company as well as being a lawyer).  Oh, what the heck, it would be worth checking out a few places.


I can tell you from personal experience, in Canada and the US, we enjoy "organized real estate".  We have the MLS's and real estate information at our fingertips and the ability to locate active listings anywhere in North America as a result.  What a benefit!  In my opinion, it's one we all too often take for granted. Believe me, we now know.  We saw the other side of the coin while in Ecuador.   


In South America.  There is no such thing as "organized real estate".  No MLS, not even anything written down about what properties are listed or for how much.  Ask one Real Estate Representative how much one place is and you get a price.  Ask another and you get a totally different price.  That price could and often is $20,000, $30,000 or even $50,000 higher or lower than the first person you asked.  Same house/apartment, different salesperson.  Believe me, you don't want to be at the mercy of what we saw, because there is no-one looking out for you, and if you look like the gullible or uninformed type, you will be taken advantage of.  Of that, there is no doubt.  From a critical point of view, it would be more accurate to describe the face of real estate in Ecuador as chaotic because that, is exactly what it is.  


There are no real estate professionals per-see, they don't have to qualify for a real estate license.  They don't have to abide by codes of ethics and standards of business practices.  They have no real estate boards or councils to ensure that minimum standards are maintained, and many of the real estate representatives. have no clue about real estate whatsoever.  The local barber, taxi driver, manicurist, or grocer can put down their work tools and become an instant real estate person on the weekends or during the evenings.  It is definitely a case of Caveat  Emptor or buyer beware.  Worse still, we came to know there are two prices for everything in Ecuador, clothing, real estate vehicles & food - you  name it there will always be a difference in price.  The first price is one they call the "Gringo Price" and the other is a price for the locals which is often substantially less.


The problem is, that many Ecuadorians only want to sell to Gringo's because they believe, the will pay a ridiculous price thinking it's a good price when compared to Canada or the US.  But this is not Canada or the US.  The homes/apartments are inferior in every way.  There are no minimum building codes and many properties don't even have proper sewer lines even in the larger apartment buildings.


It's sad to say, that the Gringo's have brought this on themselves by visiting the country and overpaying because they have absolutely no knowledge about where the prices should be.  Yes, the price of a property might sound good in comparison to say the coast of California but what you won't be told, is that someone just tripled the asking price of the property, and someone else, paid it because "it sounded like a good deal" when in fact it was not.  They just saw the Gringo coming.  


Because the prices are shooting upwards as a result of  overpaying, the locals cannot afford to buy and the locals who  have property to sell, only want to sell to Gringos.......it's a mess and it is causing a great deal of underlying resentment toward Gringos from the locals and quite honestly, I can see why.      

Sometime ago, I stumbled upon a blog by an American Builder from California.  He has a well followed blog about Ecuador. He said in one of his blogs words to this effect; keep your hands in your pockets and rent for a couple of years at least - very good advice and we were going to take it had we stayed.  George (the builder) has not yet moved to Ecuador, but has been there on a number of occasions and is a hive of information about the country.  He has seen much more than we did.  He loves it, but our destination was i suspect, more limited than his as we wanted the Pacific Ocean on our doorstep.  


To get back to the story.  The lady from the real estate/lawyers office who was asked to show us a few examples of property for rent by our lawyer introduced herself and then we started towards the elevator.    


First, she ordered a taxi instead of driving us which I thought kind of strange that we would be looking at real estate with a representative in a taxi and without a car.  


On our arrival at the first destination, she turned and asked if I would pay the driver.....I could not believe this was happening and I wondered what the response might be if we employed this tactic in Canada or the US.  It would get rid of the tire kickers :-).  Oh well, when in Rome....as they say. I coughed up the fare for the taxi, albeit only $1.75 for a ten minute drive. 


We spent about ten minutes walking up and down the street looking for the house she was asked to show to us.  Many of the homes do not have addresses like we do in North America, and I don't believe there is a postal service like we know it with a home or mailbox delivery service.  Some homes have no numbers on them, hence the delay.  


The keys she brought with her would not work in the gates which were all locked for security reasons as they typically are on all properties in South America.  In the end, she called the owner who drove over and let us in.

We toured the home which was for rent for $900 per month fully furnished.  I took two steps into the foyer and knew instantly that this home was not one we would remotely consider as a rental long or short term even if we did decide to live in Cuenca.  

The house was very dark, not clean and furnished with stuff I would have taken to the dump years ago.  It also had a myriad of varying levels throughout the main floor for no apparent reason, enough of them so you could easily end up falling over or tripping.  A broken hip or arm is not what one would wish for here.  


This was supposed to be a "choice home in an exclusive area".  That's what the lawyer told us.  OK I thought to myself, so we could go downhill from here in terms of quality - The thought of that didn't help to inspire my day.  

OK, we've seen enough I told her.  Vamoose, and we did...."You like"? the owner asked in broken English as we exited the home.  Er...not for us thanks - too big! (my way of making an delicate exit without hurting any one's feelings).  There was a very quick exchange in Spanish between the real estate lady and the owner, then he beckoned us into his car and drove us to another busy intersection where Donna, myself and the real estate lady alighted.  

OK let's go!  the real estate girl said, as she led us to a muddy pathway alongside a river which we followed for about a mile.  Walking was made harder as we were at a height of just under 9,000 ft above sea level and we were tired from the flight the day before.  


We walked for about a mile on the pathway when there was a perfectly good road to walk on running parallel to us about 50ft away but the road had many vehicles on it and pedestrian traffic rights are non existent in Ecuador, so maybe it was better we walked on the path after all.  About 10 minutes later, she pulled her phone from her ear and stopped us and said in broken English, owner not home....cannot see.  


Okay I thought.  We hadn't even arrived at the home yet, but this was obviously not meant to be.  At least we did not have to fill up at a gas station but boy, I thought, a Starbucks coffee might taste nice right about now.   


"Where now?", I asked.  Turning on a dime she beckoned to some far off apartment block in the opposite direction.  So back we went.  Almost another mile along the pathway and some uneven sidewalks and occasionally in the roadway, traversing around bushes, in mud, avoiding the dog excrement that seemed to be everywhere you looked on the sidewalks.  Oh oh, she's on the phone again I thought to myself.  She stopped and turned to us again and said, "the next one is rented".

I am not an impatient person by any stretch of the imagination but by this time my patience and tolerance levels were wearing thin.  I vaguely remember saying to myself the word "mañana", a word everyone must learn and understand when in Latin America it means tomorrow in Spanish, but an American Ex-Pat who lives in Salinas and who claimed to be a professor of languages (a linguist) who teaches Spanish to Ex-Pats down there explained to me jokingly one day that mañana more accurately should mean NOT TODAY.  I chuckled when he told me that, but now I was starting to understand his theory.  

Time to take the reins here.  OK, back to the office I told her.  We're done.....Taxi! (and there was no shortage of these bright yellow GM Cabs).  Five minutes later we were back at the lawyers office.  

The office was closed for lunch, but a quick phone call from the real estate lady brought the lawyer scurrying back smiling eating her sandwich with a look on her face as if she had just won the lottery.



Flight from Cuenca to Guayaquil.  8 hours by bus, 40 minute flight - Cost $40

The next day we caught an early flight to Guayaquil.  I had pre-arranged for a taxi to pick us up at the airport to drive us to Salinas on the coast in the province of Santa Elena.  


We chose to do it this way, as it would have been difficult to watch the bags from the inside of the bus as people got off and the baggage compartment was opened and closed repeatedly.  I did not want to take the chance of losing our only two suitcases and all our worldly possessions because we were warned specifically about the dangers of people making off with others baggage.    

The 2 1/2 hour ride from the airport by taxi to Salinas cost us just $50 and the driver took us right to the apartment we had rented from a Canadian Realtor/owner who lived in Ontario.......I won't cover the whole apartment story but needless to say, we left earlier than planned and headed back to the US.  

The place we stayed in was overpriced, and in need of repair and updating.  We met a really nice lady (Cathy) upstairs from Denver.  She helped out supplying us with cups and cooking equipment and a water container so we could at least function minimally in this supposed "fully equipped luxury apartment".  My feedback can be found on trip advisor.    

While we were in Salinas, we did a lot of walking up and down the Malecon.  It soon became apparent that if you went over two blocks the houses were extremely small and some almost like shanties.  I would have to say they did not appear very clean from the outside.  That may not in fact be the case.  We will never know as we never entered one of them.  

In certain parts of Salinas, it seemed to us, that the locals were impervious to health standards and personal hygiene and just bagged up their garbage and threw it out into the streets for someone else to deal with.  This was not everywhere but it was prevalent in a few locations we walked through.  


The amount of spray paint was very noticeable.  It was everywhere we turned.  Even brand new buildings were not exempt.  It was disheartening to see this lack of pride but on the other hand, was it a lack of pride or did the people know no better?  Hard to say, but it's one thing to be poor, but to live in these conditions with small children - it's hard for us North Americans to take in and fully understand.    

As we walked the streets of Salinas, I could feel the vibes coming off Donna.  She did not need to say a word to me and to her credit, until we sat down and discussed our first week she never did, but I could see it in her eyes and I knew she did not want to rain on my parade but on the other hand, this is for both of us.  It was not a one person decision.  When I put in my pennies-worth during our open, honest and frank discussion, I could see a great relief on Donna's face as I suggested it was not all it was cracked up to be, in fact, I could now see why the Ex-Pats referred to the publication International Living as International Lying.  Our opinions on what we had seen were both the same. We are heading home..It's not for us.  

The Malecon.  Ah yes, everyone talks about the Malecon.  Well, the Malecon is a sidewalk on a sea-wall in front of the ocean.  There are a few stores, a couple of bars and restaurants on one side and the ocean on the other......that's it.  It's about two miles long at best.  

There was nothing to do except walk along the Malecon which you can only do so many times in a year before you get bored.  Yes, we could have purchased a boat for $20K or more and paid the mooring fees, but how many times can one go out and sit on a boat and fish?  One year may cut it, but 5 - 10 years? Ouch!  Where's the variety in that?  It's like the guy who retires and loves to play golf all day.  The attraction of that soon wears off in retirement playing day after day after day and of course, it gets expensive.

The point about boredom was underlined when we went to a bar on the Malecon called Smokin BBQ owned by a Texan and his wife.  He had just opened up about two months before.  We spoke with him and I asked how long had he been here?  He replied, "three years.  I came to retire just like you".  I looked around at the bar, teaming with ex-pats and repeated the word "retire".  Oh, that's another story he said.  


Within a year, I was bored to death and I just had to do something.  It took a while to secure this place but I needed something to do.  Here there is nothing to do.  Now I love it here.  That just sealed the deal for me.  I had no intention on retiring and then immediately starting work in a foreign country.      

If we mastered the language, we could also have started up a business selling real estate as there is no credible competition in Salinas.  I thought to myself that had we had the team of people working for us down there that worked under our Real Estate banner in Calgary, we would have cleaned house.  Of that, there is not doubt.  We couldn't even get anyone to show us apartments for goodness sake.  One excuse followed another as to why they could not show us property.  The owners are away, we are busy, I have to go to another town....on and on.      


We had arranged to meet a real estate person down there, an American lady who had been living there for over 20 years.  She knew when we were arriving.  She had our address, our email address and she knew the building we were renting in.  We had been in contact with her for months.  We had even spoken to her on Skype, but she never called the first week at all.  I sent her a message asking when we were going to look at property as we had a limited amount of time left.  Her reply was that she had stuff we could look at on her web site. That was it.  That was the level of service.  We heard nothing more, not a word from her in three weeks.  
So we decided to cut our losses and move back to our winter home in Nevada earlier than planned which is where I am writing this from.  

We flew from Guayaquil to San Salvador in El Salvador and then from there to Houston Texas, and after another 3 hour stopover, we would embark on the last leg back to Las Vegas.

It might be pertinent at this point to tell you about one of the funnier parts of our trip.  While we were on one of the flights we took down there flying from Cuenca to Guayaquil, Donna gave me a nudge and whispered to me "do you realize you are head and shoulders above everyone on this aircraft?"  I hadn't noticed, but now come to think of it I did see that my 5' 10" frame was much taller than anyone and that trend seemed to be maintained wherever we went in Ecuador.  

Very few Ecuadorian men are over about  5' 5" tall.  I felt like a giant.  Yes! I thought, this was my time!  Maybe I could form a football team and be on the offensive line, but sadly that thought was also doomed to failure as in South America, the game they are crazy about is soccer.  


Actually Donna too, was often head and shoulders above the Ecuador men.  Forget trying to buy XXL T shirts or larger shoes down there.  It is not going to happen.  


Then things took a turn for the worse.  When we landed in El Salvador.  We were waiting in the departure lounge for our flight to Houston Texas when I noticed a few Texans waiting for the same flight.  One of the guys was around 6' 10" and approximately 350 lbs in weight.  Another was around 6'8" and +/- 230 lbs and built like a brick.  


Yes, you guessed it, while playing Candy Crush on her iPad, Donna leaned over and very quietly whispered to me.... "Ken....welcome back to shrimps-ville honey".  I smiled while shooting her a look of disappointment as I realized I had been relegated back to the vertically challenged league of men. 

So what happens now?  Well, we will head back to Canada at the end of September.  We have our Annual medicals to schedule in and I have to re-order my drivers license, Alberta Health Care Card, Citizenship Card and other stuff as I lost my wallet in Las Vegas the day after we arrived back.  

We will stay for two or three weeks house-sitting for some friends or ours in Lake Bonavista.  It will be time to visit with all the family and grandchildren then we will return to Mesquite hopefully until the new year.  

After that, we are going to try out Panama and Costa Rica for a month or two, to see if it is any different there.  I believe it will be.  I have been reading up and joined a few chat groups and other closed groups on Facebook operating out of both countries, so there is a glimmer of hope that we can find somewhere nice that we can rent in the warmer climes for maybe four or five months of the year.  That's all we really want as we have our lovely home in Mesquite and won't be selling it anytime soon.  

So now you know why the title of our blog changed to Donna and Ken's Adventures During Retirement and this post title of "Back To The Drawing Board".  I am going to change the web link also as it is now out of line with what we are doing so next time you receive this, it will have a different web address.



One thing is crystal clear and that is that whatever happens, if we move to Central America for a few months, we will rent a fully furnished place and keep our funds safely invested in real estate in Canada instead of taking a chance, buying something down there, then two, three or five years later finding out we need or wish to sell up again and move back and take the heavy losses on our possessions down there (which is what normally happens as I have learned through the ex-pat chat rooms from those who live down there).  

All is not lost by any means.  As we sit here in Nevada, we have warmth and sun, in fact, it was 30 degrees Fahrenheit warmer on average in Nevada than it was on the Equator all of the time we were down there.  The picture above of a sunset was taken by me from our patio a few of nights ago and, it is not enhanced.     


Yes the sun sets every day, but every day but one, it will rise again, bringing us a new opportunity to find another adventure. Life is precious and we should make the most of the time we have - As the old saying goes.....nothing ventured nothing gained.  We both agree with that sentiment and if nothing more, at least we will be able to say, we have been and we have seen and we have grown personally from our adventures during our years in retirement while we have the health to do it.     


In summary, Ecuador It's is a pretty country once you get beyond the garbage and the spray paint.  The flowers are gorgeous and the various species of flora and fauna are very diverse. The people are wonderful and always cheerful and they are very resourceful.   


I remember sitting in a taxi at a red light, when I saw a fellow walk out across the road in front of the vehicles.  He had a motorcycle helmet on.  I thought he was crossing the road to get on his motorcycle......but no, right In the middle of the road he flipped upside down and rested on his helmet and did a head stand and then with a tremendous effort, he spun himself around on his helmet  faster and faster - almost as fast as an ice skater when they spin and draw their arms in during an ice dance.  He had the traffic lights timed right to the second.  


With about 15 seconds to go on red, he stopped spinning, got to his feet and approached the vehicles to ask for some money for his efforts.  Some gave.  Others did not.    


There are many that eek out a living the same way.  Some arbitrarily wash the windshields of vehicles at the lights like we have seen in Canada.  Others juggle fruit of all shapes and sizes.  Some twirl  battens. There are Mariachis, acrobats and people selling fresh fruit, lobster, shrimp, you name it.  When the lights go red, it's action, lights, cameras! - these people all trying to ply out a living from nothing.  My hat goes off to them and, one other thing, they waste nothing. Food and items can and are always re-used if left-over.  


I remember five men taking down a concrete column in a garage across the street from our apartment.  They took it down with brute force then did the work they had to do while one guy spent the whole day hammering through the concrete with a 9 lb mall to recover the re-bar lodged deeply within the concrete.  Yes they are frugal people and will use absolutely everything they can in order to make their life a little easier for themselves and especially their families.  They certainly are not the 

"throw-away" nation we have become and their families seem a lot closer than ours in North America.

Last but not least, we felt safe all of the time.  Yes every door has a security person at it and all the windows are barred and gates locked, but we felt very safe even walking around the less populated areas of Salinas.  In short, it was no different from any other North American City and certainly better than some in terms of feeling secure as firearms are banned in Ecuador.    


Did we enjoy the experience?  Of course.  It was something completely different.  We learned a lot in the three weeks we were there.  Would we go back there again?  Maybe, but if we did, it would be different as we would be looking from a tourists point of view, not from the angle of going down to decide if we wanted to live there full time.  That is a very different undertaking. 


We believe we would like to discover somewhere new and experience somewhere different.  The next time, I for sure will be more open-mind about where we are going and what it will be like, until we have stayed there awhile.  No pre-conceived ideas and certainly no believing in what is written in publications like International Living.       




The flowers were stunning.  Bougainvillea like these above came in many different colours.


Often, they mix in the different colours to make stunning displays.


So now you know how it was and the reason why the title of our page changed somewhat. 

We look forward to sending you our next blog......maybe not next month, but soon.  For sure.

Donna and Ken




Monday, August 19, 2013

The Day Has Arrived - Ecuador, here we come

It was an early start Aug 14th.  We checked into the Southpoint Casino quite near to McCarron International Airport, Las Vegas Aug 12.  We had just returned from a few days visit to California celebrating our 20th Wedding Anniversary.  


We arrived at the brand new terminal 3 in Las Vegas just after 3:45 am ready to check in for the flight to  Panama City, Panama.  Needless to say, the terminal was almost empty.  



4:00 am - and Donna at the new Terminal 3 Las Vegas in a last bid to win money in lost Wages (Las Vegas).  She walked away happy with $280 profit in her purse.  
Good on yer babe.

The flight to Panama City, Panama was about six hours.  As we flew in on our approach to Panama City, we caught a view of the massive Panama Canal out of the aircraft window.  It was hot and humid when we arrived at the terminal, but not as oppressive as the heat one would find during summer time in Toronto.



A brief view of the Panama Canal as we approach Panama City

An hour later, we boarded another aircraft for the flight to Quito, Ecuador's capital city.  We arrived in Quito as the sun was beginning it's fall from the sky and heading quickly towards dusk.  A taxi driver was waiting to pick us up at the airport asked by our American host who runs a hotel there, to bring us to his hotel.  We arrived at the hotel, a supposed brand new hotel and that was where we had our very first "reality check".


We pulled up in the taxi facing a very high wall and wooden gates probably ten feet high.  "new hotel" I thought to myself, then boom, reality check two.  Someone opened the gate and the taxi drove in.  We quickly got out of the vehicle to be greeted by a small American fellow.  I nearly asked where the hotel was, but it became blatantly obvious, we were looking at it.  New, not quite, maybe 60 or 70 years old.  It was the business that was new, "Welcome to our place he said......let me help you with your bags".

We entered through the front door directly into what was the reception area that doubled as a living room.  There was the kitchen, the stove, the counter top over at the back and a fairly spacious room with two couches set at right angles to each other.  Nothing spectacular but, we were tired and really, the only thing we needed to do was relax.

We were presented with the register to sign in and while Donna was taking care of that, my eyes wondered around the room trying to assess what the bedrooms were going to be like.    Actually it did not really matter as we had played our last card.......we were there and the gates were ...........locked.

The hotel was really nothing more than a large eight or ten room house.  Set in the countryside, hidden behind the large walls on each side and protected by a gate.  I thought to myself.....all this place needs is a moat!  

It was immediately evident to both of us, that this place resembled what you would find in any local town in Mexico.  So, no big deal.  No it wasn't the Ritz Carleton, but neither were the prices. 


The owner of the hotel was a soft spoken American fellow from Ohio - fairly young, mid 30's to mid 40's who had lived in Ecuador for about two years.  He told me he had also taught English as a second language in China.  He's OK I thought!  He introduced us to his girlfriend, a pretty young lady, who obviously did the cooking and helped him clean the rooms.  They asked if we would like supper.  After asking what was on the menu, he told us it would be chicken (pollo) and rice (arroz) and french fries, but to give him about an hours notice if we wanted to eat.  Donna quickly shot me a glance and we gracefully declined supper, although we had not eaten anything but a sandwich since the night before.  We did ask him if there was anything to imbibe upon prior to getting some shut eye.  He said "oh yes", and pointed to display of red and white wines he had in one of those home-outfitter wine racks you sit on the counter top.  Have you any cold (frio) wines? I asked.  Yes he said!  He pointed to the glass fronted refrigerator in the corner of the room.  We quickly grabbed a bottle of cold white wine and a couple of cold beer, and headed to our room upstairs. Ah yes, the room.  Reality check number 3.

We opened the door to be greeted with two beds.  No, no I thought to myself, there must be some mistake.  Nope, that was indeed our room.  No mistake!  Who's going to take the single bed and who gets the double we asked simultaneously? too tired to draw straws, we both jumped into the double... yes a double not queen.  This was a far reach from the kIng bed we had got used to and just given away at home.

We filled our glasses, toasted each other drank it up, switched on the TV and fell asleep.  During the night, I got up to go to the bathroom.  Reality check no 4.  As I switched on the light and closed the bathroom door I saw the sign on the door.  it read.  PLEASE DO NOT FLUSH YOUR TOILET PAPER DOWN THE TOILET - PLACE IT IN THE RECEPTACLE PROVIDED. Ewwww!  That would have been Kath's reaction back home if she saw this I thought to myself.

People were coming and going all night.  The following morning, we were flying out to Cuenca to meet up with our lady lawyer who is handling our file. We had asked the American fellow if we could have coffee in the morning.  He said it would be ready at 5:30 am, which would allow us to drink it before the taxi driver turned up.  

When we came down to the living room, there were about 6 or 8 suitcases in the middle of the room.  They were presumably from the people who arrived in the middle of the night.  They obviously were tired, checked in and headed for bed.  I asked if they were locals that had arrived?.  No he said, they are Americans who are doing just like you - moving to Ecuador.  They arrived at 3 am this morning.  The taxi driver turned up promptly at 5:30 am, we loaded our suitcases and bid the American goodbye.

Lina our lawyer has a doctorate in law and specializes in Immigration.  I was so looking forward to meeting her.  I wanted to unload all these vital original documents for a fear of losing them or having them stolen.  

As we entered the airport at Quito for the flight to Cuenca, I learned lesson No 1.  Men do not wear shorts in either Quito or Cuenca.  We were strolling through the airport trying to locate the check-in desks and I saw hundreds of people looking me up and down which made me feel kind of uncomfortable.  It was not until I started to look around that I realized, no-one was in Shorts.........except me that is.  dawb! as Bart Simpson would say.....and my slacks were in the checked baggage.  Oh well, I won't make that mistake again.   Ecuadorians are very self conscious about their dress and their shoes.  

On arrival in Cuenca, we were met by our lawyer's driver and immediately taken to her office.  Lina, our lawyer is a nice lady.  She also owns a Real Estate Company.  I handed her the original documents and she looked them over.  "I would like you here on Wednesday August 21.  We will apply for your permanent residents Visa's at that time.  You will have to get up early and be in the lineup around 6:30am.  The offices open at 8:30 am.  I will meet you and join you in the line at 8:15 am" she said.  "Your documents look in good order, Now enjoy the rest of the day and relax.  My driver will take you to your hotel" (The Santa Monica).  

Once our application is in she said to expect the Visa approval in 3-4 weeks.  Once the Visa is in your passport, you have just 30 days to apply for our Cedulas (ID cards that by law every Ecuadorian or resident of Ecuador must carry at all times)  That process takes 2-8 days, and it must be done in person, so....now our one month trip to Ecuador has become a possibly two month trip by the time everything is settled......if everything goes smoothly.

That afternoon, we toured around through the Park of the flowers (Park Des flores) and to some street vendors where Donna purchased a couple of Panama Hats for $10.  Don't know if you are aware, but The Panama hat is made in Ecuador.  The same hats (sombreros) were on sale in San Diego for $200.  I saw them there three days before.  




Then we hit the Coffee Tree, a favourite haunt of Ex Pat Gringo's.  We sat outside on the patio and people watched for a couple of hours as we sipped our cold beer and wine.  We listened to the chatter, much of it in English then, we headed back to the hotel.  On the way home, we dropped into a Jazz club and had supper for $6 each.  We spent an hour there listening to the a base guitarist and a 70 year old pianist playing Jazz.  They were very talented.  Then, we left for the hotel.  We were tired and it was the end of our first 24 hours in Ecuador.  I did not dare broach the question what do think then honey?  I didn't want to know.

At 6:30 am sharp, Patricio (a man) the taxi driver turned up at the hotel and we loaded up the taxi with our suitcases and headed for the airport once again, this time, to fly to Guayaquil, Ecuador's largest city.  The flight was quick, just 40 minutes on a small prop airliner.  I am not sure if Donna was trying to lift my spirits but as we were all stood in the aisle ready to deplane, she turned to me and said "do you realize, you are the tallest guy on this aircraft?"......I looked around and yes, at 5' 10" It was true.  YES, I thought silently.  I've made it.  I was stood in the centre aisle of the aircraft looking down on these small Ecuadorian men.  I mused for a moment - maybe I could get in the offensive line of the stampeders, and then again hmm.  Maybe not.  It was a fleeting moment of joy though.

Guayaquil is a port city of about 3.5 Million people, not somewhere we would want to be.  We had decided that rather than catch the bus for the two and a half hour ride to Salinas, upon arrival, we would rather be met by a Taxi. The American girl who sells real estate in Salinas and who is managing the property we would rent sent her driver.  The two and a half hour trip by taxi cost us $50.  The bus would have cost us $8.50 each.

We pulled into Salinas, picked up the keys from the real estate office and headed to the apartment.  Below are some pictures and views from the apartment, a 2100 sq.ft unit which has probably never been cleaned in the past year.  It does have glass walls that slide back so the living room is wide open to the Pacific.  These pictures are all taken from our living room in Salinas.  As you can see, dusk is setting in here.


Night comes very quickly here.  One minute it's light, then it's dark.  24/7/365


This next shot is taken from our living room


What more could we want than this?



Tuesday (tomorrow) is a big day.  We are up early and have to catch a bus for the return trip to Guayaquil, then a flight back up into the Andes to Cuenca.  It's also my 65th birthday.  We will join the line of people waiting to get their papers approved at the government offices on Wednesday then we will fly back to Guayaquil and catch a bus back to our apartment in Salinas.  We anticipate having to stay here for a further 4 - 6 weeks and hopefully then, we will have our permanent residents visas, and the real adventure will start to unfurl.

Yesterday we took a walk along the Malecon It was about a two to three kilometre walk,.  We turned around for the journey back and decided to swap over to the other side of the street for the journey back.  We walked about a 1/4 mile and saw an open bar with what appeared to be many people like ourselves busy in conversation.  

The girl outside the bar asked if we wanted to come in for a drink.  Why not we said, and we found ourselves immediately in the midst of many Ex Pats all interacting with each other.    We had a great time.  We met lots of people eager to help us out, fun staff who had smiles that seemed larger than their faces could hold and they all had time.  No rush.  The first word you must learn is Mañana.  Most people who know Spanish think that Mañana means tomorrow.  Actually we have already learned that mañana in real terms means not today....sometime in the future.

Donde Esta El Banos por favour? I asked the waitress.  She pointed in the direction of a small circular wall with no signs on.  As I headed toward the wall looking for the gents washroom, I heard the grey haired Ecuadorian behind my back say in Spanish....."that guy speaks Spanish.  I know him from somewhere".  NOT I thought.  upon my return towards Donna sitting chatting at the bar with an older version of Dave Murray, a very good friend of ours from Calgary, the grey haired man stood up as I passed by........he held out his hand and said.  I'm Eddie, this is my wife.  Please join us.  Not wishing to be rude, I sat down and found out that his wife is one of the local dentists.  He does odd jobs to keep himself occupied and he like many Ecuadorians creates his own opportunities.  OK, more beer.  More talk..... Believe it or not, he and his wife had recognized my face from one of the Ecuador Groups I had joined on Facebook....amazing.


Eduardo and his wife Paola Berreto (dentista) with Donna.  Lovely people, salt of the earth, 

All of a sudden, one of the waiters comes over, I believe he is from Argentina.  We speak...trying to learn our language are you? Se was my reply.  I speak German fairly fluently, so this is not a big deal, at that point he slipped seamlessly into German as if to test my truthfulness.  Bad move.  I had lived and served in Germany for a long time.  He asked me a question in German to which I replied in German.  Paola, not to be left our, immediately came back with a German statement.  So there we were, this waiter, an Argentinian I believe, the dentist, an Ecuadorian and me, an Ex pat Brit now a Canadian all speaking in German in Ecuador. Very strange but we had a lot of fun.  

Well, today was relaxation day.  One of the ladies in our building Cathy, took us on the bus to the Mall in La Libertad.  Donna got to try out the ATM and bingo, money came out.  Great.  Now we know we will not be destitute as it worked perfectly.  

We walked around the local shopping mall and quickly came to the conclusion there is no such thing as XXL here or if there is, it's a well kept secret.  Oh well, I have two options, trim down and fit into XL tee shirts or, buy them in the US.  That also applies to shoes.  Here, they are very expensive.

I have probably bored you too much by now, so it's time to sign off.  What to do, what to do.  Nothing until tonight when we are meeting up with a bunch of Ex Pats at a restaurant and bar for Ribs.  More next time.  Keep safe and for those of you who were worrying about our safety, Don't.  Guns are banned in Ecuador and it's as safe to walk down the street here as is is in any district in Calgary.

Buenas Suerte.







Sunday, July 21, 2013

Waiting Time in Mesquite, Palm Desert, San Diego then Onto Ecuador.

Salinas


The drive from Calgary was smooth as we headed for the US border crossing at Coutts Crossing, just south of Lethbridge.  We had picked up a Uhaul trailer for our trip south, packed it with stuff we could not give up or thought we might need, hooked it up and left Okotoks, Alberta around 9:00am July 13th.  

We expected questions when we arrived at the border but they never materialised which was a relief as I did not want to unload the whole trailer again.  We handed over our Nexus Cards and Passports to the US Customs official, he asked a couple of questions, asked us to lower the rear windows, peaked inside the truck then bid us goodbye and sent us on our merry way.  

We reached Dillon MO. ten hours later, and were glad Donna had the forethought to use her Ipad to book a king bed in the Best Western while we were on the road, as we snapped up the last one available that night.    

The next morning, we hit the road early. The drive through Salt Lake City was also clear.


The Mormon Tabernacle Left of Centre with the Dome.

I wondered why Calgary would not do an HOV lane system on the Deerfoot like the one we were now on. It would certainly ease traffic issues and one nice thing about the way they have traffic organised is - large trucks or vehicles pulling any trailers are not permitted in either of the two left hand lanes at any time making the flow of traffic much more fluid.  


HOV Lanes on Interstate 15 through Salt Lake City - Minimum two people per Vehicle to travel in this Lane

We eventually pulled into Mesquite at 5pm local time on Sunday July 14. It was 111F. We stopped quickly at Smith's Groceries, grabbed some items to tide us over until the next morning and headed for home. 


It was delightful walking into our home once again.  We had not been there for the past seven months.  It was nice and cool, clean and hardly a spec of dust as the homes are built airtight, to conserve energy.  Our neighbours had been kind enough to go over and switch on the central air conditioning for us before we arrived.




The front of our home in Mesquite.

After unpacking the trailer the following morning, we dropped it off at the local Uhaul dealer as soon as we could.  The manager's eyes nearly popped out of his head as he looked at the tires on the wheels of the trailer we had rented from Uhaul.  There was absolutely no tread on the tires.  I had not noticed this when we picked it up.  The manager asked how far we had driven the trailer.  We told him we had just driven 1495 miles from Canada.  He shot a glance at me as if to say you did what?  He shook his head and told me he would have never let this trailer out in that condition, he went on to say the trailer was in an outright dangerous condition, that the brake lights and indicator lights did not work and that the Calgary dealer should never have let this trailer out in this state.  He could not believe that anyone would be so reckless.    

I would not have minded but for the fact that when we picked  up the trailer in Calgary, I specifically asked the girl handling the handover "have you checked both tires, wheels and tire pressures?"  ......Oh yes! she said, then she quickly asked me to jump into the cab of the truck so she could check out the lights, flashers etc. which she said were all working fine.  Another lesson learned - check it all yourself.  This is the second time we have been let down by this company, so Uhaul is now toast in our books. 

The temperatures in Mesquite are holding steady around 108F to 113F.  It is expected to stay that way for the next month or so or get hotter which makes sense, after all we are in the Mojave Desert.  

We did lose some plants in the heat one month ago when temperatures reached around 119F, so our next job is to buy more plants and get them planted in Sept. once the weather cools to the mid 80's.




Donna relaxing in the front courtyard or our home


If you would like to take a tour of our Sun City subdivision, click on this link. http://goo.gl/b6ykDC It's a great place to relax, and if you are a golfer, it's heaven on earth - a small town with seven or eight golf courses.

Unfortunately on the way down, maybe because of the heat, our windshield cracked, but after enquiring with Ford of Canada, It was evident we were still under the first years warranty on our truck and we were below the 20,000 km limit so the local dealership replaced the windshield free of charge.  They actually sent their glass guy to our garage and he replaced the windshield right there.    

On our drive to San Diego, CA, to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary August 7th, we will leave Aug 4 and we will spend two nights in Palm Desert.  We have to bypass two massive fires burning near Palm Springs and Palm Desert, so we hope we don't run into traffic issues or smoke problems en-route so we must ensure we have a full tank of gas so we can keep the air conditioners running in case we are caught on the road in a line-up, because in this heat, you would not last long in a vehicle without air.
  

This picture was taken a few days ago and the fire has not yet abated but I don't think that the township or City is in imminent danger.


We will be in San Diego Aug 6 and 7 somewhere nice then on Aug 8, we will drive the seven or eight hour journey back to Mesquite to prepare for the trip to Ecuador.  

We will book into a hotel Aug 12 in lost wages (Las Vegas) as we fly from Las Vegas to Panama City, Panama then, after an hour or so stopover it's on to Quito, Ecuador's Capital City 9500 ft up in the Andes.  

The person dealing with our Visa applications is sending his nephew to meet us at the new airport just outside Quito.  

Quito is a city of around 1.2 Million people. The climate ranges from the high 50's to the mid 70's.  It is spring like weather year round.  We will stay there for just two days, then we will fly to Guayaquil, a port city and the largest city in Ecuador.  On arrival, we will seek out the bus for the trip with all the locals and head for Salinas on the coast or "Costa".  


A picture of Quito with the Volcano in the background.

We understand that Salinas is semi arid, is more humid than the Andes and the temperatures range from the Mid 80's to the mid to high 90's 24/7.  It is nowhere near as hot in Ecuador as it is in Mesquite though.  Even if it is just one degree south of the Equator.  That's because you have the coastal winds blowing onshore most of the time which help a lot to moderate the temperature.  

The map below, albeit of not too good a quality shows the location of Salinas which is the most westerly part of the land in the SW corner of the map






  This is a shot of the Malecon and the Condos in Salinas where we may well end up buying, if we like what we see but, we will rent for a while to make sure 
before we take the plunge

We have booked a brand new 2100 sq.ft. apartment on the Malecon in Salinas for two weeks so we can explore some of the City and, look at a few properties and from Salinas, our discovery trip will take us north up the coast to Manta, known as the Tuna fishing capital of the world.  There, you can get a boat and fish for these magnificent Tuna fish as well as blue and black Marlin pictured below.  

The currents are just right for these types of fish, but one wonders how long it can last before (like other places in the world), it becomes over-fished.  



Well, it's time to end this blog.  We look forward to bringing you our next blog from the inside of Ecuador sometime between Aug 16 and Aug 28.

We should have lots of pictures and descriptions for you at that time.  We'll be in touch.  

Have a great summer everyone!

Donna and Ken